Here are the left and right flap skeletons clecoed to the bottom skin for match drilling. A couple notes, on the left all ribs face outboard, but on the right the interior ribs face inboard. The interior ribs also get drilled to the shaped rear spar, which is part of the bottom skin. The instructions mention that shims may be needed. I need them on the two internal ribs on both flaps.

I did not like the idea of drilling the rear spar without the ribs in the correct position. So, I noticed that the top skin can be clecoed to the ribs upside down, and there was still enough room to drill the rear spar to rib holes. Once the 708 spacers were created, the top skin was clecoed into place and the entire thing was match drilled all at once.

The 706Bs are a pain to bend. As you can see, I put it in the vise, and started hammering checking the angle from time to time. The duct tape help prevent scratches. Your average hammer will not work here. The plans call for a very accurate 6.3 degree bend. I doubt I got it within the 0.3 degrees, but it appears to be flush with the 706As.

Next was on to prepping and priming of the skeleton components. The 706s get riveted to the inboard rib and main spars. Be sure to rivet the aft hole the platenut on the inboard rib prior to adding the 706Bs. Also, be sure to put the shop head on the outside here, as the warping of the thinner material can induce some error in final fitting.

Riveting the flap together starts with the rear spar to rib rivets. Then the top skin is added and the rear spar and ribs to skins are rivted. Only one of my bucking bars worked here, and it seemed built for just this task although one side needed polishing. I used cardboard to protect the rear spar and raise the bucking bar to the proper height for bucking. I did wind up using an extra blind rivet than described in the plans. It was underneath the platenut as seen above. I just couldn't figure out how to buck that rivet succesfully.